The Black Oxford – Dress Shoe Buying Guide
If you only need one pair of dress shoes, an interview shoe, internship shoes, or shoes for a business casual office job, the black oxford is the default shoe for all business/business casual situations. While more on the formal side, black oxfords match just about every pant option except brown pants. If you work in business casual and have a bit more leeway with your shoes, purchasing a pair of dark brown oxfords or brown suede oxfords is also an option, however, you can never go wrong with black.
Note 1: If your favorite shoe brand isn’t listed here it doesn’t mean we think lowly of it, there just isn’t enough space to list all brands, and we consider the ones listed below as excellent choices at various price points.
Note 2: Some of the shoes listed below are shockingly expensive. Expensive to the point where only a shoe hobbyist or someone with substantial income can justify. We are aware of this, but as a website that focuses on menswear, we believe there is a place for this level of shoe as eventually it becomes more about art and craftsmanship than just price to value considerations alone. We consider this somewhat equivalent to a car enthusiast who enjoys the aesthetics, craftsmanship and quality of a Ferrari or Aston Martin, even though they have decided a Toyota is what fits their needs best.
Pro Tip 1: This list is in order by Price: Low to High, however your budget should not be the only consideration. How the Brand’s shoes fit, feel, look on your feet, and what other clothing you decide to wear are of equal importance. Slim fit pants and a bulky shoe isn’t a great look no matter how much you like the shoes, just as baggier pants with a narrower/longer shoe will also look “off”. Look at price as a ballpark range, and then narrow down based on the aesthetic you like/what matches your current clothing.
Pro Tip 2: You will see the word “last” in the shoe titles. This refers to the wooden block the shoe designer created the shoe’s “shape” on. Each last has a slightly different look i.e. more pointy or more round. If you like the look/fit of a certain company’s last, you can usually search and filter specifically for the last on each company’s website. Also note, depending on the last, there are times you might be a half size up or down from another last, even from the same company.
Pro Tip 3: All the shoes listed here have leather soles, however, many of these companies offer these exact pairs of shoes with a rubber sole. While not as aesthetically pleasing sometimes, having a rubber sole does have some distinct advantages such as being more durable during wet weather, better grip, and not being as loud while walking on certain surfaces.
Entry Level
Meermin
Meermin is a Spanish shoe brand that was founded in 2001 by a father and son team. Meermin specializes in high-quality leather shoes that are made using traditional techniques. The shoes are made in small batches by skilled artisans, and each pair undergoes a rigorous quality control process before it is released to the market. Selling only Direct-to-Consumer through their stores and website, they are able to provide a high quality shoe at a reasonable price.
Meermin Black Oxford – Hiro Last – $195
Notes: The Hiro last has a nice air of elegance, not too sleek and not too rounded.
Meermin Black Oxford – Elton Last – $195
Notes: The Elton last is a bit sleeker and has a sharper toe than the Hiro last, a nice option if you’d like a slightly more fashion-forward look while still being dressed within the bounds of business casual.
Meermin Black Oxford (Linea Maestro) – $310
Notes: If you have bit of extra cash, purchasing from Meermin’s Linea Maestro line gives you a higher quality of leather, a handwelted sole (where the upper, insole, and welt are stitched together by hand via one seam instead of with a machine), as well as some very aesthetic detailing on the sole.
Allen Edmonds
Allen Edmonds is an American shoe company founded in 1922 in Belgium, Wisconsin. In the 1930s, the company began to focus on the production of dress shoes and gained a reputation for making high-quality footwear. In the 1960s, Allen Edmonds became known for its Goodyear welt construction, which involves stitching the upper part of the shoe to the sole, making it more durable and allowing for easier resoling.
Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Black Oxford – $395
Notes: The Park Avenue is the definitive American dress shoe and you can never go wrong purchasing it. Allen Edmonds is one the last American shoe companies left and make a quality product. They are “boring” by some standards, but will never look out of place.
Intermediate Level
Vass
Vass Shoes is a Hungarian shoemaker that has been in operation since 1978. The company was founded by Mr. László Vass. Over time, Vass gained a reputation for producing high-quality shoes using traditional techniques and materials. Vass Shoes is considered one of the leading shoemakers in the world, and its shoes are highly sought after by connoisseurs of fine footwear. Even though you may never have heard of Hungarian shoes, don’t let that stop you from purchasing from such a high quality manufacturer.
Vass Black Oxford – F Last – €417 (~$450)
Notes: The F last is a nice blend of a slimmer look with a rounded toe.
Vass Black Oxford – U Last – €417 (~$450)
Notes: The U last has a similar slim look but with a more square toe box.
Carmina
Carmina was founded in 1866 in Inca, Mallorca by Matías Pujadas. In the early 20th century, the company began exporting its shoes to other parts of Spain and Europe. In the 1970s, Carmina went through a period of modernization, adopting new technologies and techniques to improve the quality of its shoes. In the 2000s, Carmina finally began to gain international recognition for its high-quality footwear. Today, Carmina is still a family-owned business, known for its use of premium materials, traditional craftsmanship, and attention to detail.
Carmina Black Oxford – Rain Last – $525
Notes: The Rain last is a more chiseled/pointed last from Carmina. More aggressive compared to the Forest below.
Carmina Black Oxford – Forest Last – $525
Notes: If you prefer a rounder/round toe shoe, the Forest trumps the Rain last. If you want to play it a bit safer given the cost of these shoes, choose the Forest.
Alden
The Alden Shoe Company was founded in 1884 by Charles H. Alden in Middleborough, Massachusetts. In the early 20th century, Alden shoes gained a reputation for their quality and durability. Over time, the company began to focus more on dress shoes and casual footwear. Today, Alden shoes are still made in the United States, using traditional shoemaking methods and the highest-quality materials. The company’s shoes are handcrafted by skilled shoemakers, and each pair is subject to rigorous quality control checks before it is sold.
Alden Black Oxford – Hampton Last – $639
Notes: This is the premier American made oxford. Similar to the Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, but higher quality all around. These are not for the fashion-forward dresser, but the “I can wear them forever while still being acceptably dressed” and getting them resoled every once in awhile crowd.
Crockett & Jones
Crockett & Jones was founded in Northampton, England, in 1879 by James Crockett and Charles Jones. From the outset, they specialized in the production of high-quality, handmade footwear focusing on using only the finest materials and the best shoemaking techniques. Starting in the early 20th century, they began to focus more on men’s footwear while supplying the British Army boots through WW1. Business continued to grow, opening direct-to-consumer storefronts in 1997 and internationally by 1998. In 2012, C&J started to supply the James Bond franchise with shoes starting with Skyfall, and was awarded a Royal Warrant by HRH The Prince of Wales in 2017.
Crockett & Jones Connaught – 236 Last – $730
Notes: The 236 Last is the most round of the three featured and the most traditional. You can’t go wrong purchasing these.
Crockett & Jones Hallam – 348 Last – $730
Notes: The 348 Last sits on the other end from the 236, and is a much more modern, aggressive square toe based last. Not to be compared with the abomination that is the square-toed Kenneth Cole shoes from years ago, these are an excellent shoe if you want a more modern, chiseled look while not drifting into the whims of fashion.
Crockett & Jones Audley – 337 Last (Handgrade) – $920
Notes: The 337 Last is a nice in-between pick, not as square as the Hallam and not as round as the Connaught, it is also part of C&J’s Handgrade Collection. This higher tier collection boasts asymmetric lasts for an even more exceptional fit, aniline dyed antique calf skins, a closed channel stitched sole (hides the stitching on the sole of the shoe), a “gentleman’s corner” to minimize trousers snagging on the heel, and a hand polish.
Luxury Level
Gaziano & Girling
Gaziano & Girling is a British luxury shoemaker known for its high-quality, handcrafted leather shoes. The company was founded in 2006 by Tony Gaziano and Dean Girling, who had previously worked together at the renowned English shoemaker Edward Green. They set up their workshop in Kettering, Northamptonshire, a town with a long history of shoemaking, and began producing handmade shoes with a focus on quality, craftsmanship, and design. G&G shoes are known for their sleek, modern designs, as well as their exceptional comfort and durability.
Gaziano & Girling Black Oxford – DG70 Last – £1,040 (~$1,275)
Notes: The only black oxford G&G makes, the DG70 last is sleek with a modern, rounded toe.
Edward Green
Edward Green was founded in Northampton, England in 1890 by, you guessed it, Edward Green. Starting in the industry as a twelve-year-old apprentice, Edward was driven by an ambition to make a better class of shoe. By the time he was 22, he had honed his skills and founded Edward Green. As the company grew, it began to cater to more affluent clients, including royalty and celebrities such as Ernest Hemingway to Edward, the Duke of Windsor. The company’s commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and traditional shoemaking techniques has made it a legend in the footwear industry.
Edward Green Black Oxford – 202 Last – $1,375
Notes: The 202 Last is Edward Green’s “quintessential English shoe”. This is their round-toe last and is noted as good option if you have wider feet.
Edward Green Black Oxford – 82 Last – $1,375
Notes: The 82 last is described as an “almond toe”, so still round, but a bit slimmer than the 202 last for a more refined look.
“Grail” Level
Saint Crispin’s
Saint Crispin’s was founded in 2001 by two brothers, Oliver and Matthew Wicks. The name Saint Crispin’s is derived from Saint Crispin, who is the patron saint of shoemakers. The company has a small team of skilled artisans who work in a workshop in Northampton, where each pair is handmade using traditional techniques such as hand-stitching and hand-finishing to create each pair of shoes.
Saint Crispin’s Black Oxford – Riva Last – €1,325 (~$1,435)
Notes: Saint Crispin’s only black oxford, their example of, “minimalism in design. Simply a shoe of dignified presence, epitomizing the masculine elegance.” As a bonus you also receive a free pair of shoe trees.
Corthay
Corthay is a luxury French footwear brand that was founded by Pierre Corthay in 1990. He began his career in the footwear industry as an apprentice in a shoe factory, and eventually moved to Paris and worked for several high-end shoe companies, including John Lobb and Berluti. He opened his first workshop in a small Parisian apartment and began creating bespoke shoes for clients. His shoes quickly gained a reputation for their quality, craftsmanship, and innovative designs. Corthay’s shoes are known for their unique designs, which blend classic and modern elements. Corthay is known for their use of bold colors, unusual materials, and intricate details, such as hand-stitched seams and hand-carved soles.
Corthay Black Oxford – Saint Germain Last – $1,890
Notes: The Saint-Germain last is named after the Saint-Germain-Des-Prés neighborhood and is geared towards those who want a timeless and sophisticated look. Also comes with free shoe trees.
John Lobb
John Lobb is a high-end luxury shoe brand that was founded in London, England in 1866. Lobb began is career in bootmaking when he travelled on foot from the Cornish coast to London in 1851. He then created a hollow heeled boot while in Australia during the gold rush, which allowed miners to stow contraband gold nuggets. He returned to London and was named as the bootmaker to the Prince of Wales in 1863. Celebrating the expert craftsmanship of its artisans, John Lobb designs still incorporate artisanal techniques and silhouettes discovered in the house’s extensive archive and each pair of shoes is made using a complex 190-step manufacturing process in Northampton, England.
John Lobb City II Black Oxford – 7000 Last – $1,750
Notes: The City II featuring the 7000 last is the quintessential British oxford from John Lobb. Balanced proportions make it an easy choice.
John Lobb Alford Black Oxford – 7000 Last (Prestige) – $2,250
Notes: The Alford features the same 7000 last as the City II, but is part of Lobb’s Prestige Collection. The Prestige Collection adds another level of handwork with hand sculpted waits and wheeled edges. You also receive complementary lime wood shoe trees.
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