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The Classic Tuxedo
Heading towards Thanksgiving means New Years plans are just around the corner. A sharp classic tuxedo is never the wrong choice for New Years Eve. Each year designers tend to try to come up with new ways to alter the classic tuxedo design to chase a trend, but they always end up looking out of style within a couple of years. Given how infrequently most people wear a tuxedos, along with the investment in purchasing one, ensuring it will last 5-10 years is imperative. Also, having a classic tuxedo for black tie events, dinners, and weddings will always come in handy. Below I lay out the traits for a classic tuxedo as well as purchasing options at most price levels.
What makes a classic tuxedo vs. any tuxedo?
Technically almost any tuxedo fits the “formality” level of black tie, but there are plenty that do it poorly. There are really only two variations of the classic tuxedo, a black tuxedo with peak lapels, or a midnight navy tuxedo with a shawl lapel. This will focus on the black tuxedo with peak lapels as the midnight navy shawl collar is very tough to find by comparison, and shawl lapel styles vary significantly year to year (mostly poorly).
Peak Lapel vs. Notch Lapel
Peak lapels on the classic tuxedo are one of the main characteristics that elevate it to a higher level of formality. The notch lapel is usually the standard lapel shape for suits and sport coats. There has been a trend over the years to combine the notch lapel with the tuxedo and is one of the main design traits to avoid. Below is a side by side of peak vs. notch and then again with a markup of each design. Think peak like mountain peak vs. notch like a you cut a notch out of something.
Peak Lapel Notch Lapel
Pricing
$500 or Less
The Black Tux Peak Lapel Tuxedo – $300ish
Honestly, I would rent. The Black Tux is a solid rental for a whole outfit, tuxedo, shirt, shoes, bow tie all for under $300. They also give you an opportunity to buy your rental at a large discount instead of returning it.
$1,000 or Less
SuitSupply Black Lazio Tuxedo – $698
SuitSupply always creates a solid product. Designed in Europe and made in Asia, their product always has a slimmer/more European fit you see from the more expensive European brands. Probably the go-to pick for most people. You can also pick up their Black Tie Package which adds a shirt, shoes and bow tie for $999. (currently on sale)
$1,500 or Less
Ralph Lauren Polo Wool Barathea Peak Tuxedo – $1,395
The king of preppy’s black tie offering, this tux will never go out of style.
$2,000 or Less
Sid Mashburn Kincaid No. 3 Peak Lapel Tuxedo – $1,950
Sid Mashburn is relatively unknown outside menswear circles but has quite a resume having worked for J Crew, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Land’s End. Made in Italy, this tux hits all the classic design markers.
Corneliani Solid Peak-Lapel Tuxedo – $1,995
Corneliani is an under-the-radar Italian brand that has been making high quality clothing for almost 100 years. You won’t find a better classic Italian tuxedo at this price.
$2,500 or Less
Canali Wool Two-Piece Tuxedo Suit – $2,095
Canali is another slightly under-the-radar Italian brand that has been making quality menswear clothing for years.
Ralph Lauren Purple Label Gregory Wool Twill Peak Tuxedo – $2,495
A solid offering from Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label line, made in Italy with a slightly trimmer fit than the standard Ralph Lauren tuxedo above.
Paul Stuart Phineas Cole Super 110s Wool Peak Lapel Tuxedo – $2,495
Paul Stuart is a classic menswear company founded in New York in 1938. Their Phineas Cole line is a more modern take on their traditional fit, and is perfect for a lean guy looking for a sharp, slim fit tuxedo without looking “fashion-y”.
The Armoury by Ring Jacket Wool/Mohair Model 4 Tuxedo
The Armoury is an internationally known menswear store from Hong Kong focusing on classic tailoring for the modern man. This is their collaboration with Ring Jacket, a superb tailoring house from Japan.
$5,000 or Less
Brunello Cucinelli Peak-Lapel Two-Piece Tuxedo Suit – $4,495
Famed menswear designer Brunello Cucinelli’s take on the classic tuxedo.
Isaia Sanita Wool Tuxedo Two-Button Suit – $4,595
Isaia is another Italian powerhouse clothing company, who’s trademark is a bit of red coral seen in the pictures below (can be removed). A bit more fashion-forward than some other traditional Italian makers, but always excellent quality and this tux fits the bill.
Over $5,000
TOM FORD Solid Wool Peak Tuxedo – $5,340
Fashion icon Tom Ford knows how to fit a classic tux, no matter what you think of his other clothes. Is this a bit overpriced compared to some other tuxedos on the list? Perhaps, but if you veer towards fashion, have the income, but still want a tuxedo with classic detailing, this is it.
Let me know your pick in the comments below!